What is a Hemmed Fell Seam?

The hemmed fell or flat-felled seam is a technique for attaching two pieces of fabric through sewing. It wraps the raw edge to the inner part of the seam, making a neat, durable, and professional-looking finish. Jeans, workwear, and other garments must be extra durable along the seam.

Why Should I Use a Hemmed Fell Seam?

Durability

They are super strong and can withstand quite a heavy load of use and a good amount of washing, which makes them perfect for the clothes you use or wash very often.

Professional Finish

This method of seam allowance gives your projects a good view; no raw edge is visible on the inside, and it looks similar to the items you can buy in the shops.

Variety

Although commonly used in clothing, hemmed fell seams also come in handy in many sewing projects, such as bags, curtains, and upholstery.

How Do I Sew a Hemmed Fell Seam?

- Fold your fabric’s wrong sides together and make a standard stitch about 5/8 inch from the edge of the fabric.
- Trim off one of the seam allowances to about a quarter-inch.
- Wrap the longer seam allowance around the trimmed edge, thus keeping it inside the fold.
- Press the crease you’ve made into place with an iron and secure it with a pin.
- Stitch the seam very close to the fold, sealing the raw edges within the seam.

When Should I Choose a Hemmed Fell Seam Over Other Types?

Consider using a hemmed fell seam when you need a combination of durability and a clean interior finish. It’s especially beneficial for:

- Heavy-duty projects like jeans or canvas bags.
- Items that require frequent washing, such as children’s clothing.
- Garments or textiles with both sides are visible and must look finished, like curtains.

How to Fix Mistakes in Hemmed Fell Seams

You can fix mistakes in this kind of seam by carefully separating the stitches from the last correct part. The most common errors include trimming off the seam allowance and pressing.

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Hemmed fell seam