Open seam

What Is an Open Seam?

An open seam, often a basic sewing pattern, involves joining two pieces of fabric together by sewing along the edge and pressing the seam allowances open instead of to one side. This process gives a flat and smooth finish, which makes it suitable for reducing the bulk of a garment or fabric project.

How Do You Sew an Open Seam?

Pin the Fabric

Get two pieces of fabric on the right sides together and pin along the line where the seam will run.

Sew the Seam

Sew the pinned line using the stitch density according to the recommended seam allowance, usually 5/8 inch.

Press the Seam

Before sewing, open the fabric and use the iron to move the seam apart so that it is neat and finished.

When Should You Use an Open Seam?

For flat and smooth looks, distinctive projects that need open seams are perfect. They are suitable for the following cases:

    • It is a very fine, lightweight fabric whose weight has to be reduced.
    • Garment lining to ensure a comfortable fit.
    • Areas of a garment that require a neat appearance inside and out, such as facings or waistbands

Can Open Seams Be Used on All Types of Fabric?

Yes, open seams can be used on almost all fabrics. With very delicate fabrics, it is essential to avoid fraying, which may result. It helps to prevent this by overlocking or using a zig-zag stitch on the seam edges.

What Are the Pros and Cons of Open Seams?

Pros:

    • The open seam results in a smooth finish without bulk.
    • It is ideal for a delicate or very light fabric.
    • Stitches on the inside to give a neat appearance.

Cons:

    • It lacks the durability of a flat-fell shoe because some sewing operations may not be reinforced.
    • Barley requires perfect iron pressing for a well-finished product.
    • Rough edges might need to be covered with edging materials to prevent fraying.

How Do Open Seams and French Seams Differ?

Open seams are those where the seam allowances are left apart and showing at the edges, making the finish flat. In contrast, a French seam contains seam allowances within the seam, thus providing a clean finish and added strength while also creating a slight ridge.

How Can You Prevent Fraying in Open Seams?

Preventing fraying in open seams can be done by:

    • Using a zig-zag stitch or serging over the seam allowances is essential in preventing fraying in open seams.
    • Cut Your Fabric Edges: Use a set of expertly home-sewn scissors to treat your fabric sides differently.
    • Apply the sealing product to the edges of your fragile fabrics.

How to Fix an Incorrectly Sewn Open Seam?

    • Unstitching: Using seam rippers, take out the wrong stitching.
    • Pin the Fabric to Be Correct: Correct all the mistakes and re-pin the fabric.
    • Re-sew: You must sew the seam again using the correct seam allowance. 
    • Press Again: Pressing the broken seam down is perceived as a good finish.